The hip belt is the oldest element of costume for the belly dancer. Small statuettes depicting dancers from the temples of Ishtar in Babylonia and Phoenicia date back to the third millennium B.C. These figures consist of women dressed simply in a round pillbox hat and a wide belt. This belt is thought by many art historians to indicate the strength and creative power of the pelvic region. This belt acts as an attention grabber, leading the viewers' gaze directly to the hips.
In India as early as 200 B.C. the key focal garment of female dress was the mekhala, Sanskrit for girdle. The mekhala appears throughout the history of Indian clothing as a metal belt with loops of hanging chain, pearls, beads and precious stones. Many images of dancing temple guardians carved in stone and painted in manuscripts exist and can be viewed in art history books and museums. The drawing to the left is a copy from a sculptural group c. 740 A.D.
Traditionally, many different types of wrappings have been used by dancers to emphasize their hips. Paintings and engravings from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries illustrate the wide variety of methods dancers have employed to draw attention to this important region. There are, however, only three major formats currently used to accentuate the hip: scarves, ethnic or metal belts, and beaded cabaret belts.
A large rectangular scarf tied across the widest portion of the hips is the
easiest way to highlight this important part of the body. Scarves can be
decorated in thousands of different ways. Fringe, sequins, coins, braid,
jewels, chains and embroidery are just a selection of the vast array of
decorative techniques that can be used on the surface of the scarf or along
the edge.
Two scarves can be used together -- one in the front and one in the back -- folded in half to form triangles. This format allows for a larger surface area to be decorated on the fabric of the scarf. This method of hip accentuation is depicted in the painting of the early 19th century orientalists of France. The artistic movement of the time focused on the exotic pleasures that were available in the Near and Far East. Many images of dancers were captured with the artist's brush and may be historically accurate. Scarves are most frequently used with ethnic or folkloric costumes that bring to life the traditional dance garments from past periods.
Using scarves for hip accents
allows the dancer a great deal of costume
flexibility. Scarves can be layered one on top of another to form rich
color combinations. In addition, scarves are very versatile costume pieces
that can be used on other parts of the body as well. A large rectangular
scarf, for instance, can be folded in half and knotted together a quarter
of the way from the end to create a loose flowing vest-like cover. Scarves
can also be used to tuck into other belts, over the head, around the neck
and even, if they are not too large, around the ankle.
Decorative scarves are available in many department and import stores as well as in unusual locations. Be attentive while shopping, because you never know when you might find the perfect accessory. A large collection of scarves is an asset to the dancer who likes to vary the look of her outfit without a major cash outlay.
The rest of the chapter discusses the coin belt, tassel belt, and cabaret belt, including directions for designing and constructing the belts.